Chemistry of Gardening: What nutrients do plants need?
15.8 years ago alfalfa pellets, fertilizer, outdoor seed starting
If I ask my four year old what it takes for a plant to grow she can quickly respond with response, “Sun, water, air, and soil” This is a great answer for photosynthesis since plants need energy from the sun. They leverage the carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air and water (H2O) to create starches and sugar. Now the soil part of this answer is where things get a little more complicated. Soil gives plants the ability for roots to expand and grow but also provides many nutrients to help them as well.
Similar to humans, plants need various minerals to live healthy lives. The primary macronutrients Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K) are required to sustain life. These are the nutrients that plants consume significant amounts which is why these are advertised in big letters on the outside of packages of fertilizer.
MACRONUTRIENTS – PRIMARY
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources (N-P-K) |
Nitrogen (N) | Provides energy to allow vegetative growth. Leafy plants can’t get enough, root plants need very little, fruiting plants need plenty in beginning but too much later in growth cycle will result in big/tall fruitless plants. | Light green to yellow leaves; growth stunted | Bloodmeal (14-0-0) Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Soybean meal (6-1-2) Cottonseed meal (6-2-2) Fish emulsion (5-2-2) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Compost (1-1-1) Cow Manure (.2-.2-.2) |
Phosphorus (P) | Makes plants more stress resistant, allows for fast growth, encourages bloom and root growth. | Red or Purple leaves; cell division slowed | Bonemeal (4-12-0) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Compost (1-1-1) |
Potassium (K) | Helps with photosynthesis process, immunities to disease, and increased quality of fruit. | Vigor reduced; susceptible to disease; thin skin; small fruits | Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Greensand (0-0-3) Wood ash (0-1-3) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Compost (1-1-1) |
We could live off a simple food like gummy bears for quite a while, but our quality life will decrease once we picked up scurvy and exhibit significant bone and muscle loss. The same idea goes for plants, they can live simply on the primary macronutrients but they will live poor and possibly fruitless (literally) lives. This is where the secondary nutrients come in. With the exception of Calcium, these are not consumed in nearly the volumes as the primary macronutrients though supplementation may be required.
MACRONUTRIENTS – SECONDARY
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources |
Calcium (Ca) |
Helps with cell wall structure imperative for strength of plants |
Growing points of plants damaged | Dolomitic limestone, gypsum, egg shells, antacids |
Magnesium (Mg) | Required as part of the chlorophyll required for photosynthesis | Yield down; old leaves white or yellow | Epsom salt, Dolomitic limestone, organic material |
Sulfur (S) | Required for to allow plants to create protein, enzymes, and vitamins. Helps with seed, root growth, and resistance to cold. | Light green to yellow leaves; growth stunted | Rainwater, gypsum |
Finally are the macronutrients, these are the nutrients that most of the time, as long as you are not growing with hydroponics. should exist in your soil and rarely need to be supplemented due to the small amounts that are consumed by plants, nevertheless are still very important for plant growth.
MICRONUTRIENTS
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources |
Boron (B) | Helps in production of sugar and carbohydrate s. Essential for seed and fruit development. |
Small leaves; heart rot (corkiness); multiple buds | Organic Matter and borax |
Copper (Cu) | Helps in plant reproduction | Multiple buds; gum pockets | Copper sulfate, neutral copper |
Chloride (Cl) | Helps with plant metabolism | None known | Tap water |
Iron (Fe) | Helps in formation of chlorophyll | Yellow leaves; veins remain green | Iron sulfate, iron chelate |
Manganese (Mn) | Helps in breakdown of carbohydrates and nitrogen | Leaves mottled with yellow and white; growth stunted | Manganese sulfate, compost |
Molybdenum (Mo) | Helps in breakdown of nitrogen | Varied symptoms | Sodium molybdate, compost |
Zinc (Zn) | Regulates growth and consumption of sugars by the plant | Small, thin, and yellow leaves, low yield | zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate |
Nutrient Deficiency Information from “The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible”
Now you are armed with plenty of information, though unfortunately you can not act on any of this without knowing the chemical composition of your soil. If you simply went by the signs of deficiency (for example yellow leaves) could be caused by one or many nutrient deficiencies. Fortunately you can get this information to act on by running a soil test on your soil. There are a couple options for this if you are simply concerned about primary macronutrients there are cheap DIY home tests, electronic testers, or you can send a sample to a soil lab to give primary/secondary macronutrient and micronutrient levels and recommendations to get your soil back on track. You may also want to check with your local municipal office they may have a cheaper/free option available to you.
Just remember, your perceived lack of a green thumb my have nothing to do with your ability but the chemistry of soil you are working with.
Tags: alfalfa pellets, cheap, compost, garden seeds, led, organic vegetables, outdoor plants, vegetables
Cheap DIY fogger aeroponic system
15.8 years ago aeroponics, cheap, hydroponics, indoor growbox, indoor seed starting
In my post about basic the basics of hydroponics I mentioned the potential high cost of entry but with a little creativity this can be avoided. I went through this exercise and here is a pretty inexpensive way to try out hydroponics without having to spend hundreds on a prebuilt system. The solution I came up with cost me $1.00 to setup though I did have many of the items on hand, if I had to purchase everything cost would be in the $10-15 range.
Supplies
- Small shoebox sized plastic tub /w lid — (I purchased a clear generic one from Home Depot for $1.00)
- 2 inch hole saw and drill
- 6 — Empty Trix yogurt cups (can be any brand as long top is approx 2 in diameter)
- Duct tape (no one should be without this)
- Pond fogger – single disc (can be found on eBay for less than $10, I had one from humidifier)
- Perlite
- Water (tap water is fine, fancy bottles work as well)
Assembly
From looking at the supplies this might be able to guess the construction steps, but I will list them out anyway.
- Take lid and add drill six 2-inch holes using hole saw. If the tub is not made of rubbery material be sure to take your time to slowly create the holes to prevent cracking/shattering. You can also do this with a utility knife but for non-rubber lids I highly suggest against it if you like your fingers.
- Test fit your cups and ensure they fit snuggly, if they do not quite fit you can use some sandpaper to expand the holes slightly
- Remove cups and cut (utility knife) or burn (soldering iron) 1/4 in lines in a pattern similar to the figure to the right to ensure extra support and prevent the medium (perlite) from falling through. WARNING: Burning plastic emits toxic fumes and should be done (if at all in a well ventilated area) Knifes are sharp and can cut fingers so if you not careful. I would recommend buying 2 inch hydroponic net pots which can be purchased for about $0.25 each online, which I would have done if I wasn’t so impatient.
- Given that nutrients+water+light=algae, be sure that your box is as light tight as possible. If you container is not clear like mine you should be in good shape, otherwise cover your box with duct tape or spray paint the box using plastic adhering paint. I would recommend keeping a small vertical line exposed so you can get a quick look at water condition and level without having to disturbing the plants.
- Fill cups with perlite 4/5 full (some expansion may occur)
- Pour water into cups until reservoir is full
- Dump water out water
- Repeat steps 4-6 until water appears clear
- Cut small hole in the corner of the lid and feed power line to fogger through
- Put fogger in tub and fill with water until it is about 1/2 inch above fogger
- Replace lid and plug in fogger and enjoy the mysterious fog
What can I grow with this?
The short answer is anything. Self regulation wicking properties of perlite it should keep most plants happy for some time. The major limitation you may see is some types of plants will outgrow this setup and will require transplant outside in soil or in a larger hydroponic setup (coming soon). Though with careful selection of plants and frequent harvesting you can grow many plants to maturity in this small system. It did not occur to me until after I completed the project but the size and spacing is pretty close to that of an AeroGarden so plants like greens, herbs, strawberries, cherry tomatoes, peppers would do well in this system. For starting plants you can simply drop a few seeds, cover with some perlite and a clear plastic container (I used empty applesauce cups, but bottom of water bottles also would work well) You may also add seedlings by carefully placing in them in the damp perlite.
What about nutrients?
Keeping the project cheap I opted to use some balanced liquid plant fertilizer I use for my seedling/indoor plants. I mixed it at the recommendation it stated for indoor watering (2 pumps per gallon) I noticed it did not contain any Magnesium I also added a half a teaspoon of Epsom salt. After a couple weeks empty contents and replace with water let run for about an hour to allow sediments to clear up and then empty contents. This is good for your plants but also can help keep the disc on your fogger clean. Refill with water and nutrient mix and repeat. This will work for most plants in vegetative state of growth though if you want your plants to move to a flowering state (peppers, tomatoes, etc) I would recommend purchasing specific hydroponic solution for flowering plants.
For a very small investment you can have your own hydroponic system and experience the benefits of growing without soil.
Tags: cheap, garden seeds, herb garden, outdoor plants, pepper plants, strawberry plants, tomato plants, vegetables
Hydroponics 101 “ Introduction to Hydroponics
15.8 years ago aeroponics, hydroponics, indoor seed starting, water
By definition hydroponics is a technique of growing plants (without soil) with water containing dissolved nutrients. No soil is used but in most cases a growing medium is used to support the plant’s root system. A few examples of popular mediums are perlite, vermiculite, Rockwool, coconut coir, clay pellets, peat moss, sand, and even small pebbles. The basic idea behind the medium is to allow water to flow but also allow oxygen to be available to the roots. Even if you are not planning on growing hydroponically, I would definitely recommend learning some about the subject since many of the concepts can help you get a different perspective to have a better understanding about plants needs in various states of growth even with conventional soil growing. If you really think about it if you have ever added water soluble plant food while watering your indoors plants, you technically have already done some hydroponic gardening.
Advantages:
The primary advantage if hydroponics is the increased speed of growth in you plants. This is possible because you are making life really easy for your plants, they just relax and just keep getting bigger. Even with a small root system they are getting exactly what they need to thrive thus spending more energy upstairs instead of expanding their root system. This is possible by careful control of nutrients in the water solution which the plant is completely dependent since the growing medium does not provide any nutritional support. Another benefit is automation, though some work is required to monitor nutrient levels and pH of the solution once everything is setup you can walk away knowing that your plants will be happy. Given the in most cases the systems are basically closed very little water is lost to evaporation so that means less wasted water (and less times you have to add water)
Disadvantages:
To create a large scale setup, there can be a significant cost to get started in hydroponics. Purchasing water/air pumps various nutrient solutions during various growth stages, monitoring equipment, pH balancing, etc. No worries though, there is a cheap solution to all of this which is my current project which I will write on shortly. When automation fails, a simple pump failure can kill off your plants in hours depending in your medium since they plants require short and frequent watering since they have no way of maintaining the moisture over a long period of time.
How it works:
The great thing about hydroponics is essentially anything that holds water can be used to create a hydroponic system. Even commercial solutions use your regular old Rubbermaid storage totes and 5 gallon buckets. The uniqueness begins with the method in which you get the solution to your plants which I will explain some of the popular methods in detail below:
- Wicking — This is one of the simplest and cheapest methods of hydroponics. The basic concept is you take a material such as cotton (shredded sock/T-shirt) and surround it with growing medium and place one end in the nutrient solution. This is where the name implies, the solution is wicked to the roots of the plant. You can make this even simpler by using a medium that has some wicking properties itself (perlite/vermiculite are good examples) and suspend the medium directly in the solution. Mediums such as peat moss, Rockwool, and coconut coir should not be placed directly in the solution since they may absorb too much solution and suffocate the plant.
- Bubbler — This is also a simple and inexpensive solution where you suspend the roots directly in the nutrient solution and by leveraging a powerful air pump and air stone you create enough oxygen around the roots to prevent suffocation. This can also work as flavor of aeroponics (which I will explain more below) where the force of the rising bubbles create a light spray to keep the roots moist which are suspended in air. One benefit of this method is limited points of failure air pumps are normally pretty reliable and even if you neglect keeping your solution up the bubbling can create enough moisture to keep your plant alive for quite awhile.
- Ebb and Flow — A simpler way of thinking about this is flood and drain, using a water pump at a specified interval you flood the growing area with nutrient solution allowing it to slowly drain back into the reservoir. You then repeat this process keeping the roots/medium at the desired wetness. This method is a little more expensive than the previous methods since it requires a pump and timer that can turn off/on several times a day at short intervals. Just to give you an idea how to build a system like this, find a Rubbermaid tub with a pretty deep lid. Flip the lid over and place a small hole in the bottom (idea it will drain but slower than pump can fill) add some plants with medium, hook up a timer and you have a system. A major advantage to this method is that it gives you more control over the watering which can be very important especially if you are growing plants that are accustomed to slight drying out periods.
- Drip — This method uses a timer (slow constant drip is also an option) and a water pump to provide nutrient solution to all of your plants using rubber tubing. This does have an advantage over Ebb Flow were you can control specific watering needs of plants at different stage and the ability to spread out your plants with a little extra tubing.
- Aeroponics — Aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air or mist environment without the use of soil or an aggregate medium. Now there are some schools of thought one what exactly is considered a “mist” which separates aeroponics from “pure aeroponics” but for this discussion we will define it as directly watering roots just hanging in the air. If you have heard of the AeroGarden this is a commercialized version of this technique, so this can definitely be an easy means of entry into aeroponics. There are two typical ways to get nutrients to the exposed roots: fog and spray nozzles both of which providing a fine mist to the tender roots. Both of these methods due have some drawbacks though. Ultrasonic foggers can accumulate sediments from the nutrient solution on their discs but can be periodically cleaned and occasionally need replacement of their ceramic/Teflon discs. Nussle on the other hand can get clogged due to the same sediments so though these methods are close to “Set it and forget it” you do need to check on them periodically for maintenance. Though these techniques sound really complicated and expensive they really are not too bad. You can use Pond Foggers which run $10-100+ depending on the number of discs they hold which directly to the volume of fog they will produce. If you are doing a small experimental setup a one disc is a good place to start. If you do go the larger setup route I definitely would advise spending a little extra for Teflon coded discs since they will hold up considerable better to the nutrient solution. As for sprayers most of the materials for this can be found in the sprinkler aisle of you local Home Depot. You can also create your own by drilling some small holes into a sealed (one open end for water input) PVC tubing, though cleaning a setup like this could be troublesome.
Hydroponics is obviously much different than conventional soil growing, but it definitely can be fun and rewarding to grow effectively in an unconventional way.
Tags: cheap, led, outdoor plants
Gardening products I would buy if I wasn’t so cheap
15.8 years ago cheap, compost, germination, indoor seed starting, tomato
Today I got my Gardener’s Supply Companycatalog, this particular catalog is dedicated to items to assist you with your gardening habit. You should be able to guess from this site I do my best to resist buying anything for the garden I absolutely need, otherwise I make a cheaper alternative. Well the point of this post is to show what I would like to get if I wasn’t as disciplined.
They sell these Accelerated Propagation System (APS) seed starting kits which have all the basics you expect from a seed starting kits you would find at your local garden store. They include 6 to 40 cells to plant seedlings and a clear plastic dome to help raise the humidity to provide extra moisture for the tender seedlings. The bonus in this setup is it also contains a reservoir which holds enough water to keep them moist for up to a week. With the help of an elevated platform and capillary matting provides just the right amount of water to your plants. At just $19.95 for the 40 and 24 cells sizes this is one purchase I am still considering, since I never have finished my automatic watering system on my computerized grow box and this makes much better use of space than my plastic tub, newspaper pots, and daily watering method I am doing now. | |
Eco-Friendly Cowpots basically planting pots made as a byproduct of processing cow poo. The poo is dried, composted and mixed with natural fibers creating a completely biodegradable pot which holds up well during growth and transplanting but biodegrades in the soil after several weeks. I watched an episode of Dirty Jobs which went through the whole process and it was very interesting and environmentally conscience but, unfortunately due to the price tag (about $1 a pot) these are a little over my budget since my newspaper pots are free. | |
Gardener’s Revolution Planter – You have probably seen something similar advertised between gardening shows on HGTV (Topsy Turvy) , I know my daughter has and has been talking about growing tomatoes upside down for some time now. She even on her own came up with a ingenious design to do this (not 5 gallon bucket) which I will write-up when we get around to that project. In case you were wondering the improvement this year (or compared to the TV advertisement) it is the addition of a 1 gallon water reservoir which slowly releases water to the plant as neededSelf watering must be a big seller this year since there are also many other variances of self watering pots in many shapes and sizes with designs similar to the original (to my knowledge) the EarthBox. | |
Now definitely in the gadget department the Push-Button Kitchen Scrap Composter can take your everyday kitchen scraps and turn them into compost in less than 11 days. The concept on this one is pretty simple:Food + Heat + Spinning = Compost
Of course it crossed my mind of creating something similar myself, but probably would end up burning down the house or if I was lucky just launch partially composted food across the living room at 50 miles per hour. Given the $299 price tag seems like I will be stuck to waiting 3-6 months for my compost to be created. Though it would be much more convenient than walking through the snow to add kitchen scraps to the compost. |
Tags: cheap, compost, garden seeds, growbox, led, outdoor plants, tomato plants, vegetables
1st Blog-Iversary
15.8 years ago Uncategorized
Exactly one year ago I wrote the first post for The Cheap Vegetable Gardener. Over this short time I have had a tremendous response, more than I ever had ever imagined. I wish the January spike (below) would continue into 2009 but much of this was traffic was significantly elevated my the following honorable mentions:
- Hack-a-day (PS2 controller thermometer)
- Hack-a-day (Automated plant growing)
- Top listing on reddit.com/frugal for a few days
- MAKE: Blog: LED light grow box
Thank you to everyone who has read the blog this past year and actively participated with your kind comments. Without your feedback I probably would have gotten bored and stopped writing many months ago.
Thanks,
The Cheap Vegetable Gardener
Tags: cheap, growbox, led, outdoor plants, vegetables
Why you should check on your grow box (especially if it is computerized)
15.9 years ago blueberry, computer, cucumbers, indoor growbox, strawberries
My day job is in software development, so of course it came to mind that software/hardware can fail while I was making my computerized grow box. During its inception, I would check on it daily physically or remotely to make sure all was well. After a couple weeks of this it was so stable that I started to not check quite as often. Though in my mind there was never any question of if it would crash, it was when. Well that answer came tonight when I decided to check on my strawberries, cucumbers, and blueberry plant (trying to propagate a blueberry plant damaged in recent snow storm)
I noticed the lights were out and turned on the LCD display to see “Unable to find operating system.” Before anyone screams “you should have used Linux”, the problem was completely hardware related caused by a failed hard drive (not even the one with the operating system). Unfortunately this was the drive that had the SQL database, so hopefully I will be able to savage some of the data. Once I got the machine to boot up I saw the temperature was down to 38 degrees (poor little cucumber plants) but fortunately in the time it took to write this post it warmed up to 47.3F 57.7F, so hopefully the cucumbers will feel better in the morning.
Tonight I am adding one more item to my software to do list, a Vista Gadget to monitor the health of the grow box to ensure it is up and running. This was also a good time to ask the mental question, “When was the last time I backed up my code?” Code now backed up and am wondering why I am breaking my cardinal rule of always having source control even with a single developer.
Tags: cheap, grow lights, growbox, led, outdoor plants, strawberry plants, vegetables