How to save pea seeds from your garden
15.4 years ago harvest, peas, seed saving, seed storing, seeds
Most of the seeds I purchase, I am able to keep for at least a few seasons before running out. The one exception to this rule is peas, which I always have to buy each season. To save myself a couple dollars next year after I had my fill of peas from my garden I let quite a few mature which I will reuse for seeds this fall and next spring.
Out of all the seeds I have collected peas definitely are the easiest by far. If you want to go with the ultra lazy easy approach just let them dry on the vine until the pod no longer has any moisture and the peas are loose in the pod. You even can store them in the pod and crack them open for planting. One disadvantage to this technique is the peas could end up getting enough airflow and could result in some moldy peas.
To be on the safer side here is a more conservative approach:
- Pick pods when fine is yellow. The basic idea at this point the plant is not really providing anything to the pods so you might as well take on the responsibility
- If the pod still feels a little moist store it in a dry location. If the pod feels dry using a small knife carefully cut a small slit lengthwise into the pod being careful to not to injure the peas.
- Once the peas get all shrived up and look like what you planted to begin with store in a cold dry location (jar in the refrigerator)
Now you have seeds ready for fall planting (or spring planting next year) If you go a little crazy with your dried peas you can also add them to soups or stews during the winter time.
Tags: garden seeds, outdoor plants
How to save spinach seeds from your garden
15.4 years ago harvest, seed saving, spinach
Growing up in rural Washington state, the job market was a somewhat lacking for those under the age of 16. Given this at the age of 14-15 I was sucked into the attractive and lucrative career of spinach rouging, also known as “The Worst Summer Camp Ever” The basic premise of the job was to walk down endless “female rows” in the hot sun and destroying any male spinach plants. For every 12 “female rows” there were 4 “male rows” of higher quality spinach plants which were desired for pollination. So in other words I was facilitating the hybridization of spinach plants.
Hoping to keep these memories behind me when I decided to grow spinach seeds this year, I realized I actually learned something which I thought I would share. In my case I am open pollinating so no rouging required though it is good to still know how to identify the boys and the girls since no matter how hard you try those boys will not be creating any seeds.
The plant on the left is a male plant, you can identify it by the little yellow balls under the leaves. As you may have guessed the one on the right is a female plant which only have green balls under the leaves. Not to over complicate things there is also monacious plants which are basically both male and female which I would normally just pull up since it will make things easier during harvest time.
Spinach seeds for the most part will wind pollinate on their own but if you garden is somewhat protected from winds it may be helpful to flick the male plants every week or so to help out the process.
Once the plants turn yellow go ahead and pull them up. If they are males throw them in the compost. If they are females hang them in a dark dry place. I chose to hang mine off my mountain bike’s brake cable.
After a few weeks of drying you should see the seeds brown and dry just like they came out of the package you planted them with. Store the seeds in a dry cool place (jar in refrigerator) and you should have a great stock of seeds for the next year.
Tags: compost, garden seeds, outdoor plants
How to grow seeds in your garden
15.4 years ago cheap, seed saving, seeds
Because of a strange heat wave we had in June, I seem to be growing more seeds than vegetables this year. Now as they say when life gives you lemons, make lemonade. In that spirit I am planning on increasing the number of plants I will allow to completely go to seed this year.
I have always saved cilantro seeds, the first time it was almost an accident my daughter liked the pretty white flowers and after neglecting my garden at the end of the summer I had perfectly dried cilantro seeds on the plant. Free and renewable supply of seeds, what could be better. If I don’t have you convinced here are some more reasons:
Cheap: You really can’t beat free. With the price of seeds increasing depending on the variety of seeds you grow this could save you a considerable amount of money per year.
Easy: The creation of seeds of seeds is a completely natural process that has been happening for millions of years. In many cases you can do practically nothing other than harvest the seeds before the birds do.
Natural selection: With a little attention you can hand select only your best plants to harvest seeds from. If the plant survived to produce seeds it has to be at least a little disease tolerant and if you intentionally pick plants that bolted early you can also establish your own slow bolting variety.
Limited availability: Even with all the resources on the internet your favorite seed company may not always carry your favorite varieties or in some cases just a few seeds might be hard to come by. If you play your cards right you may even be able to make a few bucks selling your rare seeds.
Seed Exchange: If you collect seeds you more than likely will get more seeds than you need for the next 2-3 years from a single plant. This is a great supply to use for local or mail seed exchanges. Not only are you supplying someone else with seeds they need but also adding seeds to your collection which you can harvest and repeat the process again.
Growing sprouts: If you are paying for seeds growing sprouts for some plant varieties can be pretty expensive…unless your seeds are free. This is a good healthy way to use up some of those extra seeds you can’t get rid of any other way.
This year I am planning on harvesting spinach, pea, carrot, and radish seeds (along with my previous onions and cilantro) so stay tuned for more details.
Tags: birds, cheap, cilantro, garden seeds, outdoor plants, vegetables
Cheap Vegetable Seeds
15.9 years ago cheap, coupon codes, free, seed saving, seeds
Looking at my web logs I have seen the query for “cheap vegetable seeds” a few times so figured would be good to help people find what they are looking for. Being The Cheap Vegetable Gardener, I can do better than “Cheap vegetable seeds” how about some “free vegetable seeds” as well.
Cheap Vegetable Seeds
- Buy online — You can find a much greater selection and some great prices compared to your local home and garden center. For example right now:
- One of my favorites is Burpee Seeds, they have been around since 1876 and definitely know their stuff. The actually have a seed sale going on now where you get $15 off on order of $75 (just use code AFFB4A35) expires on 1/15
.
- The name is not too exciting but Generic Seeds
offers no thrills packaging with quality seeds and very reasonable prices and if you spend $20 or more shipping is on them.
- One of my favorites is Burpee Seeds, they have been around since 1876 and definitely know their stuff. The actually have a seed sale going on now where you get $15 off on order of $75 (just use code AFFB4A35) expires on 1/15
Free Vegetable Seeds (pretty much)
- Ask your neighbors — Notice your neighbor is a gardener, check if they want to go in on a seed order and share unless you really need 200 carrots this year.
- Harvest your own seeds — If your plants bolt to seed early this year, don’t pull them out let them create some seeds for next season. Notice your neighbor has some seeding plants, ask if you can get some (important part is to ask though)
- Get seeds from the grocery store — Before putting those vegetables in the compost bin, set the seeds aside to let them dry and you got some free seeds. Though a word of warning many vegetables are hybrids and may be infertile or not produce the same quality of product but hey its free.
- Check your spice rack — Many cases you can plant seeds from your spice rack. Some ideas, mustard seed, dill seed, coriander, poppy seed, celery seed. If your spice rack is lacking you can pay a few cents buy a teaspoon of organic spices in bulk, last time I bought dill seeds got about 100 seeds for $0.05.
- Seed swap web sites — Below I have listed a few links where you can share seeds with others. This is a great way to find some heirloom seeds you might not be able to find in stores/seed catalogs. In many cases people will offer seeds for free by just sending a SASE (Self Addressed Stamped Envelope) Just remember to pay it forward when you come into a plethora of seeds yourself.
Tags: cheap, compost, garden seeds, organic vegetables, outdoor plants, vegetables
Cheap grow box with LED Christmas lights
15.9 years ago indoor growbox, LEDs, seed saving
I have one major problem last year with growing seedlings, running out of space. I grow many different types of plants with various germination/growth rates and varied start dates. This forces me to make sacrifices for placement of my movable light and eventually forced to move some plants outside earlier than I should. The light needs to be close to the newly emerging seedlings, but can’t be burning the more mature plants growing into it. My solution to this problem is a LED storage container grow box. With this I will have a portable seeding area and since LEDs practically emit no heat the plants can literally touch the lights without problems. At that time I move them to a larger grow box where it can continue to grow and start more seedlings. I thought about creating my own LED matrix and buy individual LEDs and solder them together, but that sounded like a lot of tedious work and soldering, which I most likely would mess up. Given it was after Christmas and LED lights were really cheap, this seemed like a good possible solution.
Materials cheap grow box with LED lights:
- 3 gallon Rubbermaid tub
- 1 string white or blue LED Christmas lights (50% off after Christmas)
- Drill with (1/4 in drill bit)
- Hot glue gun (may be optional)
Take a look at the number of lights on your string (mine had 60) then by measuring your tub figure out how you want to create your matrix. Best to double check your measurements as you can see below I miscounted and only planned out 55 holes which I improvised and added 5 more after the fact. You can also combine multiple strings if you want, given the low wattage you can string dozens of these together if you really wanted.
Drill holes that will provide tight friction fit to the tub, for my lights this was 1/4 inch drill bit but for yours this may be more or less, I would recommend starting smaller and increase until you find just the right fit. Once you have all your holes drilled fit each of the LEDs into the holes you drilled some of the connections between the bulbs will have a solid section in between (resistor) so depending on the spacing might be best to make this one diagonal of the previous light to make it not as tight a fit. If you have some lights that just won’t stay in, apply a small dab of hot glue between the bulb and the lid. This may diffuse the light a little but very little intensity at the base so light loss should be minimal.
Last plug it in and check out your cheap LED light. You may want to shake it upside a couple times and find any loose lights while your glue gun is still hot.
Now some of your might be thinking (including myself) are these lights intense enough to allow adequate vegetative growth? I did take a look at the LED matrix with my homemade spectrograph and it did show a high intensity of blue wavelength with minimal on red and orange/yellow/green so for this small space it may just work. I am going to test it out on some guinea pig plants now and if I start seeing tall spindly growth I can easily switch out the current while LEDs with some ultra bright blue LEDs by simply pulling out the socket, swap out old LED (save some other project), replace with new LED, trim excess terminal wire, and push back into the socket. Below is my proof of concept for this as long as the voltage/amperage is the same the circuit will continue to work, below is my proof of concept.
I also purchased a couple of red LED Christmas lights for plant flowering stage but have a couple months before I need to pull those out.
For build cost, this small storage container costs less then $2.00 and with the 50% off sale on Christmas lights at $3.00 I have a cheap grow box with full LED grow lighting for just $5.00 and about 15 minutes of assembly.
UPDATES:
Christmas light LED grow box – Update #1
Christmas light LED grow box – Update #2
Tags: cheap, garden seeds, grow lights, growbox, led, outdoor plants, vegetables
Make your own paper seed packets (origami)
15.9 years ago seed saving, seed storing
When I posted about my adventures in saving onion seeds I mentioned the desire to purchase some small envelopes to hold the seeds. jimmycrackedcorn promptly responded with a comment scolding me for my lack of cheapness. Which I shamefully have to agree completely and took his advice and decided to make some of my own.
I followed the directions from the ICPS Seed Bank though I did do a little improvising to make the packets a little smaller and I got lazy on my folding so I have provided the cheap/lazy directions below.
Step #1: Start with a sheet of paper and fold down the middle, this will allow two seed packets per sheet of paper:
Step #2: Use scissors to cut out the individual triangles which will be come your seed packets
Step #3: Fold one corner one third of the way across the paper
Step #4: Insert the other corner inside the fold and fold flat
Step #5: Open top and pour in seeds, add a label, and fold over top
I like this design since it is easy enough that even I can do it, it naturally has a funnel to pour in/out seeds, and is fairly compact which is good since my pickle jar seed holder in my refrigerator is getting pretty full.
Tags: cheap, garden seeds, outdoor plants, vegetables
