Finish outdoor seed planting with coffee grounds

It has been a blessing that the competition for free coffee grounds at the Starbucks at my work has increased now the weather warmed up and I have freed from the temptation to grab yet another free shiny silver bag of grounds.  The reason is, I have put four bags in my compost, worked generous amounts into my vegetable garden and I still have six bags left.  Now I am looking at inventive ways to use the rest up.  I tried mixing with perlite to make a cheap potting soil (failed still no room for roots) but I believe I have come across one success I thought I would share.

When you are finished planting seeds outdoors apply a thin layer of coffee grounds.  This will deter slugs from going after your new seedlings and keep cats from mistaking your nicely loosened and raked soil for their kitty litter. 

I have done this for my larger seed plants (peas, garlic, onions, cilantro) but for the small seed plants (carrots, lettuce, spinach) I used the coffee grounds as a seed covering.

So far the results are great.  All of my peas/garlic/onions/spinach have sprouted with no signs of pests (four-legged nor zero-legged).

Remote monitoring of computerized grow box

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My wife saw this wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer on clearance at Eddie Bauer and knew this was something I could use.  I simply put the wireless sensor in the computerized grow box and instant temperature monitoring where at a quick glance I can be sure my summer vegetables are toasty warm in the garage.  Sure, I could connect to the machine remotely, or look at the backup digital thermometer inside the box, or check the LCD panel on the box but this definitely gives some piece of mind at a quick glance.  This may be a somewhat lower tech solution, but it works.  At least until I get around implementing my other ideas and then I can actually know what the temperature is outside.

[As you can see from the indoor temperature we are not just cheap in the garden.]

Growing in dirt outside

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I haven’t done many posts in a while about regular old gardening in actual dirt so figured a good time to do an update.  Though I enjoy indoor seed starting in my LED grow box and computerized grow box, some plants need to be started outdoors.  Today my daughters and I planted the last these plants for fall outdoor planting. 

A few weeks ago, we planted garlic, onions, spinach, and peas which are doing well.  I love growing these plants no matter how late your spring comes these plants are hardy they are pretty hard to kill off.

Today we planted carrots, lettuce, and cilantro leaving a little space left to do some successive cilantro planting in a couple weeks to ensure I have enough for salsa by the time the tomatoes are ready this summer.

Speaking of tomatoes, they along with jalapeño peppers, and cucumbers (actually flowering) are doing great in the computerized grow box.  In the LED grow box I have pumpkin, Black Eyed Susan, small sunflowers, and Purple Coneflowers using Grodan Gro-Blocks.

Nice to finally see some stuff in the ground though still hoping the weather gets better before my cucumbers try to escape the grow box.

How to make a cheap soil moisture sensor

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Soil sensors can be pretty expensive to purchase but a few minutes and a few cents worth materials around your house you can make your own accurate cheap soil moisture sensor.

UPDATE: Though this still a great sensor, check this post for the latest version of a more heavy duty soil moisture sensor.

I mentioned in a previous post that my previous soil moisture sensor did not hold up in my automated grow box update, so I needed to make a new one.  After a little research there was the classic science class method of creating a homemade sensor by simply putting two galvanized nails in the soil and measuring the resistance between them.  A major problem with this solution is the soil composition can significantly vary the resistance and keeping the spacing between the nails could be troublesome.

After a little more research I came across the method that has been working well for over 50 years.  This method includes taking two metal probes and inserting them into a gypsum block and measuring the resistance between them.  The gypsum absorbs the water and provides a decent range of resistance and moisture measurement.

Unfortunately I was fresh out of gypsum (sort of), so I looked around the garage and found a good substitute, Plaster of Paris.  Plaster of Paris is created by heating gypsum to around 150 degrees where it becomes calcium sulfate hemihydrate.  After adding water and allowing to dry it magically turns back into gypsum with the added bonus it also has the ability to mold to any shape I could come up with .  On to construction…..

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Materials for cheap soil moisture sensor:

  • 1 tsp Plaster of Paris
  • 1/2 tsp cold water
  • Disposable cup for mixing
  • wide straw (I used one from McDonalds, but most fast food straws should work)
  • 2 small pieces of metal (I used wall hangers, but nails, paper clips, etc will work as long as they can fit inside the straw with room for plaster to form around)

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I straightened out one end of both wall hangers the best I could with some needle nose pliers.  I then carefully positioned them approximated 15mm apart, the exact measurement is less important though if you are creating multiple sensors I would recommend making them the same gap to ensure consistency of measurements without having to individually calibrating each sensor.  I then used some hot glue (insulator) liberally at the top and at the bottom just enough to keep it in place during while pouring the plaster and while the mold solidifies.

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Now insert your secured metal probes into the straw, ensuring that both metal probes are equal distant from the sides of the straw.  The great thing about the wall hangers is they do this automatically due to their wedge shape at the top.  Once you have them centered apply gobs of glue to keep the probe in place but also to seal any gaps between the straw and the bottom of the straw.  This needs to be water tight since this will be the bottom our your mold.

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Prepare the Plaster of Paris according to the instructions on the box.  On my box it said 2 parts mix to 1 part colder water.  Given the small size of the mold 1 tsp of mix and 1/2 tsp of water which gave you more than enough to make one sensor.  I used a bamboo skewer to stir since I would have gotten in trouble for trying to use our new silverware.

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Now it is time to pour your mold, depending on how steady your hands are you should be able to pour the plaster right into the top of the straw.  Fill about 1/4 of the length then tap the probe gently to help the plaster settle between the gaps.  Repeat the previous step until the straw is full.  If you have problems pouring you can also dip the skewer into the plaster and scrape it against the top edge of the straw.  This step is optionally but I wanted to give my sensor a little point so I carefully added plaster beyond the end of the straw to provide a sharp point.  Once you are done filling the straw, use your glue gun to secure the probe onto the paper you are working on and allow at least 1 hour to set.

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After about an hour you can remove the bottom part of the probe.  Do this by carefully cutting around the diameter of the bottom 3/4 of the straw, along with a lengthwise cut as shown in the lines marked above using a utility knife.  You must be very careful in your cutting going too deep can result in cracking the plaster and you need to start all over.

Allow the plaster to dry for 24 hours and it should be ready for testing.  With my probe it is essentially an insulator dry (beyond what my ohmmeter can measure) and a reading of 957 ohms when slightly damp which was a great range for measuring moisture level in my computerized grow box.

testing the cheap soil moisture sensor

Finally, I attached attach wires to my analog measuring device (in my case a PS2 Controller) and I started getting readings.  At this point you should calibrate the sensor by getting a reading with the probe dry then again when it is full saturated in water.  Ironically, the probe I made was almost exactly specifications as the one I re-purposed from a cheap commercial soil moisture sensor so I didn’t even have to modify the constants on the automated computerized grow box software.

Given you can make hundreds of these things with a regular sized box of Plaster of Paris, box of paper clips and a few trips to your favorite fast food restaurant.  The cost of each of these things would be pennies and given the cost of buying a commercial product seems like a very economical alternative.

Growing seedlings with compostable coffee cups

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Occasionally at work I get a craving for some hot chocolate.  When I do, I reach for a company provided compostable coffee cup (I know I should bring in my own cup, but I did say “occasionally”).  When I am done with my delicious beverage, I simply dispose of them in the proper “compostable” reciprocal.  Last week was different, with my recent frustration with the durability of some of my newspaper pots, I got the idea to extend the life of these cups a little longer and grow some seedlings in them.

This particular type of cup breaks down in 47 days, unless you happen to leave one half filled with liquid overnight on your desk, in that case they magically breaks down a few minutes after you walk out the door.  I am planning on growing my tomatoes and peppers in these cups and plant them directly into the soil.  To help with more freedom in root growth I will cut out the bottom of the cup.  I will let you know how it works.

Now if your work does not use these cups, never fear many coffee shops are featuring these same type of cups with the purchase of an overpriced hot beverage.

Light sensitive automated grow light



I came across this interesting concept for an automated grow light. It uses a photoresister to detect when lights get low and proceeds to turns on some red LEDs to provide the plants a few extra hours of light.

From my experience if you are growing indoors, your seedlings can use as much supplemental lighting as they can get and would recommend turning them on when there is light as well, but though still a very cool project.

This could be an interesting concept for something like a greenhouse during the fall/winter seasons though.

Via Hack-A-Day via Instrucatable

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