Growing seedlings with compostable coffee cups
16.1 years ago cheap, compost, indoor seed starting, tomato
Occasionally at work I get a craving for some hot chocolate. When I do, I reach for a company provided compostable coffee cup (I know I should bring in my own cup, but I did say “occasionally”). When I am done with my delicious beverage, I simply dispose of them in the proper “compostable” reciprocal. Last week was different, with my recent frustration with the durability of some of my newspaper pots, I got the idea to extend the life of these cups a little longer and grow some seedlings in them.
This particular type of cup breaks down in 47 days, unless you happen to leave one half filled with liquid overnight on your desk, in that case they magically breaks down a few minutes after you walk out the door. I am planning on growing my tomatoes and peppers in these cups and plant them directly into the soil. To help with more freedom in root growth I will cut out the bottom of the cup. I will let you know how it works.
Now if your work does not use these cups, never fear many coffee shops are featuring these same type of cups with the purchase of an overpriced hot beverage.
Tags: cheap, coffee grounds, compost, garden seeds, led, outdoor plants, pepper plants, tomato plants, vegetables
Light sensitive automated grow light
16.1 years ago electronics, indoor growbox, indoor seed starting
I came across this interesting concept for an automated grow light. It uses a photoresister to detect when lights get low and proceeds to turns on some red LEDs to provide the plants a few extra hours of light.
From my experience if you are growing indoors, your seedlings can use as much supplemental lighting as they can get and would recommend turning them on when there is light as well, but though still a very cool project.
This could be an interesting concept for something like a greenhouse during the fall/winter seasons though.
Via Hack-A-Day via Instrucatable
Tags: cheap, garden seeds, grow lights, led, outdoor plants, vegetables
LED Plant Grow Spikes
16.1 years ago electronics, LEDs
Not sure how effective these would be with so few LEDs but they do look pretty cool. In their defense they do label these as supplemental lights. If you want one, unfortunately you have to make it yourself with full DIY instructions below.
via Gizmodo via PopSci via Lifehacker
Tags: grow lights, led, outdoor plants
Chemistry of Gardening: What nutrients do plants need?
16.1 years ago alfalfa pellets, fertilizer, outdoor seed starting
If I ask my four year old what it takes for a plant to grow she can quickly respond with response, “Sun, water, air, and soil” This is a great answer for photosynthesis since plants need energy from the sun. They leverage the carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air and water (H2O) to create starches and sugar. Now the soil part of this answer is where things get a little more complicated. Soil gives plants the ability for roots to expand and grow but also provides many nutrients to help them as well.
Similar to humans, plants need various minerals to live healthy lives. The primary macronutrients Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K) are required to sustain life. These are the nutrients that plants consume significant amounts which is why these are advertised in big letters on the outside of packages of fertilizer.
MACRONUTRIENTS – PRIMARY
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources (N-P-K) |
Nitrogen (N) | Provides energy to allow vegetative growth. Leafy plants can’t get enough, root plants need very little, fruiting plants need plenty in beginning but too much later in growth cycle will result in big/tall fruitless plants. | Light green to yellow leaves; growth stunted | Bloodmeal (14-0-0) Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Soybean meal (6-1-2) Cottonseed meal (6-2-2) Fish emulsion (5-2-2) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Compost (1-1-1) Cow Manure (.2-.2-.2) |
Phosphorus (P) | Makes plants more stress resistant, allows for fast growth, encourages bloom and root growth. | Red or Purple leaves; cell division slowed | Bonemeal (4-12-0) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Compost (1-1-1) |
Potassium (K) | Helps with photosynthesis process, immunities to disease, and increased quality of fruit. | Vigor reduced; susceptible to disease; thin skin; small fruits | Alfalfa meal (7-3-4) Greensand (0-0-3) Wood ash (0-1-3) Chicken Manure (3-4-3) Compost (1-1-1) |
We could live off a simple food like gummy bears for quite a while, but our quality life will decrease once we picked up scurvy and exhibit significant bone and muscle loss. The same idea goes for plants, they can live simply on the primary macronutrients but they will live poor and possibly fruitless (literally) lives. This is where the secondary nutrients come in. With the exception of Calcium, these are not consumed in nearly the volumes as the primary macronutrients though supplementation may be required.
MACRONUTRIENTS – SECONDARY
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources |
Calcium (Ca) |
Helps with cell wall structure imperative for strength of plants |
Growing points of plants damaged | Dolomitic limestone, gypsum, egg shells, antacids |
Magnesium (Mg) | Required as part of the chlorophyll required for photosynthesis | Yield down; old leaves white or yellow | Epsom salt, Dolomitic limestone, organic material |
Sulfur (S) | Required for to allow plants to create protein, enzymes, and vitamins. Helps with seed, root growth, and resistance to cold. | Light green to yellow leaves; growth stunted | Rainwater, gypsum |
Finally are the macronutrients, these are the nutrients that most of the time, as long as you are not growing with hydroponics. should exist in your soil and rarely need to be supplemented due to the small amounts that are consumed by plants, nevertheless are still very important for plant growth.
MICRONUTRIENTS
Nutrients | Benefits | Signs of Deficiency | Sources |
Boron (B) | Helps in production of sugar and carbohydrate s. Essential for seed and fruit development. |
Small leaves; heart rot (corkiness); multiple buds | Organic Matter and borax |
Copper (Cu) | Helps in plant reproduction | Multiple buds; gum pockets | Copper sulfate, neutral copper |
Chloride (Cl) | Helps with plant metabolism | None known | Tap water |
Iron (Fe) | Helps in formation of chlorophyll | Yellow leaves; veins remain green | Iron sulfate, iron chelate |
Manganese (Mn) | Helps in breakdown of carbohydrates and nitrogen | Leaves mottled with yellow and white; growth stunted | Manganese sulfate, compost |
Molybdenum (Mo) | Helps in breakdown of nitrogen | Varied symptoms | Sodium molybdate, compost |
Zinc (Zn) | Regulates growth and consumption of sugars by the plant | Small, thin, and yellow leaves, low yield | zinc oxide, zinc sulfate, zinc chelate |
Nutrient Deficiency Information from “The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible”
Now you are armed with plenty of information, though unfortunately you can not act on any of this without knowing the chemical composition of your soil. If you simply went by the signs of deficiency (for example yellow leaves) could be caused by one or many nutrient deficiencies. Fortunately you can get this information to act on by running a soil test on your soil. There are a couple options for this if you are simply concerned about primary macronutrients there are cheap DIY home tests, electronic testers, or you can send a sample to a soil lab to give primary/secondary macronutrient and micronutrient levels and recommendations to get your soil back on track. You may also want to check with your local municipal office they may have a cheaper/free option available to you.
Just remember, your perceived lack of a green thumb my have nothing to do with your ability but the chemistry of soil you are working with.
Tags: alfalfa pellets, cheap, compost, garden seeds, led, organic vegetables, outdoor plants, vegetables
Cool way to collect rain water – Rain Drops
16.2 years ago cheap, harvest, water
I came across this great new design and thought I would share. The inspiration is to provide a cheap way of capturing rainwater for developing countries. This would be a great way to prevent some water bottles from going into landfills but also a space saving way to capture some rainwater without requiring the large footprint or cost that rain barrel(s) can take up. No word on these going on sale yet, seems to be in the design stage but great idea.
“The RainDrops system simply allows people to adapt standard plastic bottles to an existing gutter system to collect rain water. This changes water storage from the most to the least expensive part of the system. These are much easier to clean and replace than larger storage units. The repurposing of these plastic bottles will also give value to many bottles that are otherwise headed for landfills. Corruption in the water sector is a real problem in many developing countries. The scalability of this system helps to give more power to the communities in need.
Another large benefit to using plastic bottles as a water collection system is that it fits in nicely with the process called SODIS, which uses a combination of the suns UV rays and heat to remove pathogenic microorganisms that cause disease. This process is spreading across many developing countries due to its effectiveness and low cost. “
Hydroponics 101 “ Introduction to Hydroponics
16.2 years ago aeroponics, hydroponics, indoor seed starting, water
By definition hydroponics is a technique of growing plants (without soil) with water containing dissolved nutrients. No soil is used but in most cases a growing medium is used to support the plant’s root system. A few examples of popular mediums are perlite, vermiculite, Rockwool, coconut coir, clay pellets, peat moss, sand, and even small pebbles. The basic idea behind the medium is to allow water to flow but also allow oxygen to be available to the roots. Even if you are not planning on growing hydroponically, I would definitely recommend learning some about the subject since many of the concepts can help you get a different perspective to have a better understanding about plants needs in various states of growth even with conventional soil growing. If you really think about it if you have ever added water soluble plant food while watering your indoors plants, you technically have already done some hydroponic gardening.
Advantages:
The primary advantage if hydroponics is the increased speed of growth in you plants. This is possible because you are making life really easy for your plants, they just relax and just keep getting bigger. Even with a small root system they are getting exactly what they need to thrive thus spending more energy upstairs instead of expanding their root system. This is possible by careful control of nutrients in the water solution which the plant is completely dependent since the growing medium does not provide any nutritional support. Another benefit is automation, though some work is required to monitor nutrient levels and pH of the solution once everything is setup you can walk away knowing that your plants will be happy. Given the in most cases the systems are basically closed very little water is lost to evaporation so that means less wasted water (and less times you have to add water)
Disadvantages:
To create a large scale setup, there can be a significant cost to get started in hydroponics. Purchasing water/air pumps various nutrient solutions during various growth stages, monitoring equipment, pH balancing, etc. No worries though, there is a cheap solution to all of this which is my current project which I will write on shortly. When automation fails, a simple pump failure can kill off your plants in hours depending in your medium since they plants require short and frequent watering since they have no way of maintaining the moisture over a long period of time.
How it works:
The great thing about hydroponics is essentially anything that holds water can be used to create a hydroponic system. Even commercial solutions use your regular old Rubbermaid storage totes and 5 gallon buckets. The uniqueness begins with the method in which you get the solution to your plants which I will explain some of the popular methods in detail below:
- Wicking — This is one of the simplest and cheapest methods of hydroponics. The basic concept is you take a material such as cotton (shredded sock/T-shirt) and surround it with growing medium and place one end in the nutrient solution. This is where the name implies, the solution is wicked to the roots of the plant. You can make this even simpler by using a medium that has some wicking properties itself (perlite/vermiculite are good examples) and suspend the medium directly in the solution. Mediums such as peat moss, Rockwool, and coconut coir should not be placed directly in the solution since they may absorb too much solution and suffocate the plant.
- Bubbler — This is also a simple and inexpensive solution where you suspend the roots directly in the nutrient solution and by leveraging a powerful air pump and air stone you create enough oxygen around the roots to prevent suffocation. This can also work as flavor of aeroponics (which I will explain more below) where the force of the rising bubbles create a light spray to keep the roots moist which are suspended in air. One benefit of this method is limited points of failure air pumps are normally pretty reliable and even if you neglect keeping your solution up the bubbling can create enough moisture to keep your plant alive for quite awhile.
- Ebb and Flow — A simpler way of thinking about this is flood and drain, using a water pump at a specified interval you flood the growing area with nutrient solution allowing it to slowly drain back into the reservoir. You then repeat this process keeping the roots/medium at the desired wetness. This method is a little more expensive than the previous methods since it requires a pump and timer that can turn off/on several times a day at short intervals. Just to give you an idea how to build a system like this, find a Rubbermaid tub with a pretty deep lid. Flip the lid over and place a small hole in the bottom (idea it will drain but slower than pump can fill) add some plants with medium, hook up a timer and you have a system. A major advantage to this method is that it gives you more control over the watering which can be very important especially if you are growing plants that are accustomed to slight drying out periods.
- Drip — This method uses a timer (slow constant drip is also an option) and a water pump to provide nutrient solution to all of your plants using rubber tubing. This does have an advantage over Ebb Flow were you can control specific watering needs of plants at different stage and the ability to spread out your plants with a little extra tubing.
- Aeroponics — Aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air or mist environment without the use of soil or an aggregate medium. Now there are some schools of thought one what exactly is considered a “mist” which separates aeroponics from “pure aeroponics” but for this discussion we will define it as directly watering roots just hanging in the air. If you have heard of the AeroGarden
this is a commercialized version of this technique, so this can definitely be an easy means of entry into aeroponics. There are two typical ways to get nutrients to the exposed roots: fog and spray nozzles both of which providing a fine mist to the tender roots. Both of these methods due have some drawbacks though. Ultrasonic foggers can accumulate sediments from the nutrient solution on their discs but can be periodically cleaned and occasionally need replacement of their ceramic/Teflon discs. Nussle on the other hand can get clogged due to the same sediments so though these methods are close to “Set it and forget it” you do need to check on them periodically for maintenance. Though these techniques sound really complicated and expensive they really are not too bad. You can use Pond Foggers which run $10-100+ depending on the number of discs they hold which directly to the volume of fog they will produce. If you are doing a small experimental setup a one disc is a good place to start. If you do go the larger setup route I definitely would advise spending a little extra for Teflon coded discs since they will hold up considerable better to the nutrient solution. As for sprayers most of the materials for this can be found in the sprinkler aisle of you local Home Depot. You can also create your own by drilling some small holes into a sealed (one open end for water input) PVC tubing, though cleaning a setup like this could be troublesome.
Hydroponics is obviously much different than conventional soil growing, but it definitely can be fun and rewarding to grow effectively in an unconventional way.
Tags: cheap, led, outdoor plants