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Growing peppers in a Topsy Turvy strawberry planter
13.6 years ago cayenne, jalapeno, peppers, strawberries, upside down planter 13 Comments
I made a little discovery last year and that is that peppers really don’t need a lot of room to grow, require soil a little warmer than it normally gets around here, and do not mind getting a little dry between watering. This seems like great characteristics to grow peppers in vertical containers. With this in mind at the end of last year I picked up a couple of Topsy Turvey Strawberry Planters at over 50% off when the season was well over. Topsy Turvey does make hanging pepper plant containers but I chose the strawberry planters instead for two main reasons; first they normally sell for a few dollars cheaper. Second, they are much larger and make better use of more vertical space and I can plant at least 18 pepper plants in each one.
For my mix I started with your typical soil mix and then amended it with perlite at a ratio of 3 parts potting soil and 1 part perlite. I also added a cup of bone meal to since it much easier to add now then in a couple months when they really will need it.
As you can see from this shot there is plenty of room for these peppers to spread out and should have enough root space for some decent yields
I then filled up the hanging container until it was filled up to the bottom most hole.
Next I carefully placed my pepper plants into the wholes than reached in from the inside and provided just a little bit of pressure to pack the soil enough to keep the plant secure in place. I repeated this process for the 11 other pepper plants I had ready to plant.
Finally my assistant and I poured in about a liter of water (soil was already a bit wet putting it in) and admired our work. With some strange bit of crazy luck we actually started having some great weather after we planted these and hung them up. So you can thank me Pacific Northwest…
As you can also see from the picture above I still have 6 more holes to add some more pepper plants which I have plenty in my grow box which I am allowing to mature a little longer. I will plan on providing updates on this post as highlights with this experiment develop.
RESULTS
After a cold summer weather we finally have had a good month of good weather with what appears to be at least another week of sunshine coming. This has been great for the peppers in the strawberry planter.
In this planter I have 18 pepper plants, even with the cold spring/summer they all survived and are now thriving on the top part of the plant I have hot peppers (cayenne) and on the lower half I have sweet peppers. All that was required on maintenance was watering every few days where I also rotated about a quarter turn to get even sunlight on all of the plants.
As these pepper on the plants ripen more I plan on making some cayenne pepper and some paprika (possible some smoked paprika as well) from the sweet peppers. Overall I have been very impressed with the results of this little experiment and plant to grow more peppers using this method next year.
How to repot tomato seedlings
13.6 years ago indoor seed starting, repot, seedling, tomato 6 Comments
When growing tomatoes from seed you are going to have to repot them. The basic idea is you never want to stress the plant out by restricting the roots from getting wider. Fortunately the process to do this between the various growth states is pretty simple and does not really change much between repotting.
The first time you will need to repot them to a 4 inch put when the seedlings you initially planted get about 4 inches tall using the same steps I mention in detail below.
Once the tomato plant begins to grow wider than the pot (I was a couple weeks late below) or about 7-8 inches tall this is a good time to move up to a gallon planting container.
Now you may be asking, “Hey Mr. Cheap Vegetable Gardener, those fancy generic nursery containers are expensive. I have seen them for almost $2.00 each at my local home improvement store.” Funny you asked, I picked up a bunch of these while going for a walk with my kids that someone dumped as garbage…so I stocked up.
Step 1: The Soil: Given I have quite a bit more volume to fill I modify my seedling mixture from 2 parts coconut coir (or peat moss) and 1 part perlite to 1 part coconut coir (or peat moss), 1 part perlite, and 1 part soil from my garden. This is for no other reason other than I am cheap and bagged soils can be expensive. I also add a thin layer of bone meal and a little sprinkling of eggshells to provide a boost of calcium and Phosphorous. I also add a little water to and mix until well incorporated
Step 2: Fill the bottom: You are only going to want to put about 1.5 inches of soil in the bottom of your 1 gallon nursery planter. I will explain why we are putting so little shortly.
Tomatoes have a special ability to grow roots out of its stem due to the fact that it has these little white hairs growing out of it (see below) When these are planted below the surface it will allow you to make a much stronger root system to your plants and a much more vigorous tomato plant.
Step 3: Remove leaves from plant: To take advantage of extra root growth and any leaves that will be buried are not going to help the plant anymore so remove this with knife/pruners or your fingernails in a pinch (pun intended)
Step 4: Remove plant from previous container: Tomatoes are pretty tough for transplanting but you do want to take some care to not shock the plant during this removal. It advisable for the roots to be moist but not soaking wet so the root ball comes out easily but not so wet that all the supporting dirt falls away when removed. If you have some problems removing the plant try gentle inserting a butter knife around the edges to loosen its grip.
Step 5: Fill with soil: Fill the plant all the way to the top with soil pack down lightly and repeat until you have some firm soil up to the top of your plant.
Step 6: Stake your plant (Optional). If your plant is looking a bit unstable like the one above I like to take one of the cheapest bamboo stakes I can buy (sticks from the yard would also work) and cut them to 12 inch length and press them about 1 inch away from the plant. Now simply attach with whatever you can find handy close to you. Some classics are plant tie tape, twist-ties, reusable Velcro straps, yarn, and twine. Today I happened to find a piece of yarn on the floor of my garage and a couple zip ties so I put them to good use. You want these tight enough to support the plant but still loose enough to allow the plant to grow.
No matter how careful you are the plant will go through some shock during this ordeal and probably will look a little sick for a day or two but should bounce back shortly after that and continue expanding with its newly added space.
Tomato plants still growing too well under LED lights
13.6 years ago Uncategorized Leave a comment
The tomatoes are taking over the grow box under the LED lights and starting to create some blossoms. Hopefully the weather gets better soon so I can finally bring these guys outside. The peppers are also growing great though haven’t outgrown their pots yet.
Enjoying Spring at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival
13.6 years ago spring, tulips 2 Comments
Growing up in the area I have had a lifetime of the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival, but now being the father of three little girls I have a feeling I will be seeing more of these millions of flowers blooming. With the not so spring like weather we have been having this month it seemed like a nice day to remember what spring is supposed to look like.
My middle daughter found some flowers that matched her shirt.
Now off to catch up on the work in the garden I should have been doing today…
Catching garden pests in the darkness with OutbackCam night camera
13.6 years ago infrared, night cam, pests, product review 3 Comments
In the past I have had a few critters scale or crawl under my fence to snack on my tomatoes. Without knowing what is going after my crops it is difficult to figure out how to attempt to prevent these attacks. When Swann approached me to review their OutbackCam I decided this would be the perfect tool to answer this question.
The OutbackCam is a small device that holds a digital camera which with the help of motion sensor and an array of infrared LED lights can take quality pictures/videos of anything that moves within its range during the day or night.
Installation of the devices is very simple, you use the provided strap to attach the device to a fence post, tree, etc. and pull snuggly to keep it in place. This is fine for catching animals in the act, but if humans are your target you may want to provide your own cable and lock or protected enclosure to prevent someone with a pocket knife walking away with your camera and evidence it may have captured.
The camera provided numerous settings to allow you to choose between taking photos and videos and also the amount of time you want to delay between photos to prevent using up the whole card while lets say you are mowing the lawn. This configuration I would not call intuitive (meaning I actually had to look at the instructions) but I would consider no more difficult than setting a new digital watch. Once you understand the settings and the flow it is very easy.
Though it is a few months before I will be able to catch any animals going after my tomatoes I did turn it on and captured some less threatening creatures to confirm the image quality and the number of false positives.
Overall the device was very accurate there were very few false triggers and after I was unable to catch any critters in my garden I decided to simulate a zebra attacking a seedling in my kitchen which was pitch black when the picture was taken.
One things I did notice when taking the picture above the camera does make a mechanical noise when it takes the picture. Which could scare away the trespasser (which in my case could be a good thing) but if you are looking to catch many pictures of Bigfoot in your back woods this may not be the camera for you.
The camera uses an SD memory card (same used for many digital cameras) which you can plug into the media slot of your computer to view as needed.
Overall I think this is a great gadget for capturing wildlife (wanted or unwanted) and is easy to setup is pretty effective at capturing photos based on movement in its range. It is rugged we have had some pretty intense weather here over the past few months (hard rain, hail, snow) and the enclosure has stayed completely dry. As for using for “human pests” I would recommend using this due to the internal storage of photos and the ease it is for the “pests” to walk off with your photos and your camera. Though if you are able to install this in a location that is not easily reachable or visible it could work as a standard security camera.
Disclosure: I was given a free sample to review this product but not compensated or affiliated with Swann Communications Inc for this review.
Many uses for witch hazel in your garden
13.6 years ago deer, guest post Leave a comment
Witch hazel is a small tree or deciduous shrub that usually stands between 3 and 8 meters high and can sometimes reach 12 meters. The witch hazel’s oval leaves are arranged alternately and have a wavy or smooth margin. The leaves are 3 to 11 cm wide and 4 to 16 cm long. The scientific name for witch hazel translates to “together with fruit,” due to the fact that its flowers, leaf buds, and fruit can all be found on the branches simultaneously, something which is rare among tree species.
Hamamelis virginiana flowers during the fall season. Some species of witch hazel produce flowers during winter on leafless stems, hence an alternative name of the plant, “Winterbloom.” The flowers are comprised of four strap-shaped, slender petals measuring 1 to 2 cm in length that appear in red, orange, dark yellow, and pale. The 1 cm fruit capsule is split into two parts, each housing a single 5 mm black, glossy seed. When maturity is reached in the autumn after flowering for eight months, the capsule splits, ejecting the seeds so forcefully that they fly as far as 10 meters. This is the origin of another name for witch hazel: “Snapping Hazel.”
Landscaping Use
Witch hazel plants can reach heights of 12 feet, but can be kept much shorter by pruning. Its fall foliage is yellow and the flowers have a warm, spicy fragrance that bloom in late winter or early spring. It’s ideal to plant witch hazel in full-sun to partial shade areas with acidic soil amended with humus.
These plants are unique because their flowers bloom in March, which add color to normally dull yards and gardens during this time.
Witch hazel is known as a deer repellent though organic deer repellent sprays are much more effective at preventing deer damage to landscapes and gardens.
Preventing Deer Damage
For areas with a concentrated deer population, witch hazel is ideal for landscaping because of its natural resistance to deer. However, it is not a fool-proof method of deterring deer. Some deer will eat witch hazel, even though the taste isn’t appealing. As with other deer-resistant plants, a hungry deer will eat anything.
A more effective way to prevent deer from damaging your landscape or garden is by using deer repellent. These easy-to-apply sprays are available at most lawn and garden stores.
The most effective deer repellents work by targeting both the scent and taste senses, which are highly sensitive in deer. The ingredients of these dual-targeting deer repellents include a capsaicin and putrescent egg combination. The capsaicin provides an immediate irritation to the deer when tasted. The putrescent egg mimics the smell of decaying animals, which alerts the deer into thinking a predator is nearby. Once dried, the solution is not detectable by the human nose.
There is an organic deer repellent spray available. With the OMRI logo on the label, consumers know they are using a truly organic product. This spray is highly effective at keeping deer away from treated areas, and it also protects against rabbit damage. Unlike other deer repellents, this type of spray is long-lasting, requiring reapplication as little as every 3 months.
Medicinal Use
Witch hazel’s astringent properties are due to the high level of tannins in the twigs, leaves, and bark of the plant. Astringents can harden, tighten, and dry tissues, which
is why they’re frequently used on the skin to remove oil and tighten pores.
Astringents are also useful for stopping discharges when using a styptic pencil. The tannins found in witch hazel soothe and tighten painful varicose veins temporarily, or decrease discomfort associated with phlebitis, the inflammation of one or more veins. Also contained in witch hazel are flavonoids, resin, and procyanadins which increase its anti-inflammatory, soothing properties. Applying a cloth soaked in witch hazel tea can help reduce swelling and relieve pain associated with bruises or hemorrhoids.
Various witch hazel forms, such as suppositories, hemorrhoidal pads, or lotions, can be found in almost any pharmacy. Besides topically treating veins and hemorrhoids, witch hazel lotions can also be useful on swollen, rough carpenter’s or gardener’s hands. When taken internally, witch hazel can be used to treat a prolapsed uterus, hemorrhoids, or varicose veins, although this treatment differs from what is commonly found in pharmacies.
Those suffering from laryngitis can find relief with witch hazel as well, given its effectiveness in shrinking swollen tissue. Gargling with cloves, myrrh, and witch hazel reduces the uncomfortable pain of a sore throat. Using tincture or fresh tea is preferable to store-bought witch hazel, which often contains isopropyl alcohol. For case of infected or swollen gums, rinse with myrrh and witch hazel, placing a dropper’s worth of each herb into a quarter cup of water to rinse the mouth. When combined with a drop of both clove oil and myrrh, a teaspoon of witch hazel tea makes for an inflammation and pain relieving rub for teething gums.
For treating swimmer’s ear, use a calendula, goldenseal, and witch hazel tea applied to a cotton swab on the outer ear. Moisture and pus typically accompany swimmer’s ear, usually in the outer canal of the ear. Calendula and goldenseal fight infection while witch hazel dries the secretions.
Combined with arnica, witch hazel makes for an effective topical remedy in treating traumatic sprains, bruises, and bumps by promoting a quick recovery and relieving pain. In most store-bought witch hazel, isopropyl alcohol has been added to treat external lesions.
If you’re experiencing a stomach flu or intestinal illness that causes diarrhea, a tea composed of thyme, mint, chamomile, and witch hazel can be highly effective.
Bleeding ulcers or gums can be treated with witch hazel, either topically on a wound or when taken internally. Witch hazel is very important for controlling bleeding. Medical attention is still required for serious wounds, but in the interim, witch hazel can help stop bleeding. (Jennifer Brett)
Works Cited
Jennifer Brett, N.D. Witch Hazel: Herbal Remedies. 29 March 2010
witch hazel. 20 March 2010. 29 March 2010
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